Apr 4, 2013

Taxi's Grille & Bar

Location: 1822 N. 120th St. - West Omaha
Listening to: La Vie est Ailleurs - Coeur de Pirate

Normally this restaurant wouldn't even register on my radar, but my good friend Susan asked that I check it out.  Taxi's definitely seemed like a, dare I whisper, "old person's restaurant."  Dim lighting, out-dated décor, unimpressive at first glance.  But, as the old adage goes, never judge a book by its cover.  And I must say, I was pleasantly surprised.

Dustin and I happened to visit on a Wednesday (also known as Half Price Wine Night at Taxi's) after a long day at work.  So of course we started with a bottle of wine - 2010 d'Arenberg Stump Jump, a blend of grenache, shiraz, and mourvedre from southern Australia.  It was smooth, mild, great before dinner.  Though I didn't like it much once the meal came.  The more I drank it, the drier it seemed to become.

The décor was French-inspired with vintage posters hanging on every other wall.  The menu was not so French.  In fact, it was kind of a hot mess.  A mélange of different cuisines including steaks, salads, enchiladas, crêpes, omelettes, meatloaf, and fish and chips.  Some of the dishes are offered only before 7 pm, and others after.  (Having an "early evening" dinner menu that includes pot roast only fosters the "older" feel of the place).  By the way, apologies for the poor photography.  As I said, it was a dim-lit restaurant with the occasional abrasive track lighting.  Last word on the atmosphere - please fix the bench seating along the wall!  They sink down and make one feel like a child dining at the adult table.  Dustin and I are exactly the same height, and his chair sat a good six inches higher than my bench seat.  I had a very lovely conversation with his throat.

Blue Cheese & Cabbage Soup
Starters
We ordered with the Taxi's signature soup, blue cheese and cabbage.  The soup was creamy, smooth, with a definitive caraway flavor.  Funny, I just learned from Alton Brown that caraway goes great with cooked cabbage.  Can I get some aquavit, please?  There was a mild tang from the blue cheese.  And, look, it came with brand-name crackers :)  Perfect for the last chilly evening before spring.

According to another review of Taxi's, the waffle fries are a must-order. These came absolutely smothered in peppery gorgonzola cheese and spicy chipotle mayonnaise.  The kick from the chipotle was well-balanced with the creamy cheese.  You know we love our moldy cheeses.  And the crispy fries had a great texture.  Not soggy at all, considering the gooey mess on top.  Way better than your basic cheese fries.
Waffle Fries
Entrées
I ordered the filet special of the night: A 7 oz. filet and crab cake atop a bed of hash browns and asparagus with béarnaise.  It reminded me of a play on Filet Oscar, and of course asparagus with béarnaise is a classic.  The crab cake was crispy on the outside, tender and flaky inside, with just a touch of lemon juice.  I requested my steak medium-well knowing that I would probably receive medium.  It was hot and juicy, well seasoned, still pink in the middle but not too rare for my taste.  For a Nebraska girl, I know very little about steak.  Blasphemous, I know, but to each her own.  All I can say was that this particular steak was yummy.  The fried potatoes threw me off, but they added a nice saltiness.  I preferred them to a bed of rice.  The asparagus were crunchy-tender, but I would have roasted them just a tad more.  The béarnaise was lost in all the other flavors, which was a shame.

Filet and Crab Cake with Asparagus and Fried Potatoes
Dustin ended up with a dish called "Velvet Chicken."  Intriguing.  It was a breaded, fried chicken breast stuffed with feta cheese and mushrooms, all on a bed of linguini and romano cream sauce.  This dish was, to quote Dustin, "just what you'd expect."  It was delicious, but not impressive.  I liked the breading, not too crunchy or greasy.  The chicken was cooked perfectly and the cheese sauce was not too salty.  Basically, there is a lot of room to mess up this dish, but the chef didn't seem to miss a step.  Standard food expertly executed.
Velvet Chicken
Dessert
Napoleon Torte from the Lithuanian Bakery.  One of my absolute favorites!  The restaurant was closing, so I asked for it to go.  It was supposed to be garnished with strawberries and crème anglaise, but I love the torte just as it is.  (With the exception of a little brandy apricot glaze as found at 7M Grill.)  Besides, the crème anglaise tasted more like crème fraîche.  It wasn't very sweet and I certainly didn't taste vanilla.  Why mess with perfection?

I ended up liking the food so much that I returned less than two weeks later when my brother dropped in for a surprise visit.  My dad and brother (two VERY steak-and-potatoes kind of guys) both loved it.  And though the food is unassuming and modest (I admit, I prefer complicated, avant-garde food), I thought every single dish was prepared exquistely and tastefully.  I don't mean to repeat myself, but it's really the best way to describe this place.  Classic food, done right.  I recommend Taxi's the next time you and your dinner partner can't decide where to go.  There's something for everyone here, and it's going to taste great.

Louie's Wine Dive

Location: 16920 Wright Plz. - Shops of Legacy
Listening to: Sleeping Lessons - The Shins

Wine and bourbon on tap.  French food meets comfort food.  Say what?!  I'm so ready for this....

Roi des vins
Let's start with the décor.  The entryway is mighty tight, and no I don't mean "tiz-ight."  I mean, as soon as you walk in the door, there's the hostess stand.  No room to side step, dust off your feet, maybe take a breath before being asked "How many in your party?"  I'd say they need to re-work the design a bit, as there is absolutely no room for those on a wait.  The rest of the space was visually appealing with its mismatched chairs, graffiti specials wall and chandeliers made of frosted wine and Patrón bottles.  I particularly liked the tag on my table.

Brunch
The brunch menu had several intriguing dishes, including the Mac Daddy omelet, a mac'n'cheese stuffed omelet; breakfast flatbread with chorizo and eggs; and the Rise and Shine Burger, a patty encrusted in coffee grounds.  For those who want to nosh on the lighter side, I recommend The Boulder Way breakfast, yogurt, fruit and granola.  The name of that one certainly made me chuckle.  We started with a Zing Zang Bloody Mary and a glass of zinfandel.  I also wanted to try the Louiemosa, a champagne and grape juice cocktail, but then I remembered I don't like to drink alcohol in the morning.  The Bloody Mary was left to fend for herself....coffee with cream, please.

Dustin ordered the corned pork hash with potatoes, poached eggs, and toast.  It was definitely comfort food - salty, fatty, delicious - perfect after a night of drinking.  However, this hash came with sautéed mirepoix.  I didn't get the twist, but Dustin seemed to like it.  The sapidity of cinnamon or allspice added an unusual flair; but again, it worked.
Corned Pork Hash
My own croque madame was nearly perfect.  Louie's put in their own pizzazz, using spicy capicola, chewy ciabatta, and tangy swiss cheese.  Heck yes!  But here's the rub: a croque madame already comes topped with a fried egg, yolks still runny.  Why, then, would one pour hollandaise on top of that?  Way too "eggy."  The sauce came to my table at room temperature, with a skin.  I'll order the sandwich again and again; but I recommend, omit the hollandaise.  Or better yet, fry the egg over medium and top with a nice béchamel and nutmeg.  (To each her own, right?)
Last thoughts: my "seasonal fruit."  For once, I wasn't stuck with honeydew, cantaloupe and grapes!  Most restaurants seem to think these are the only fruits available in the Midwest.  I was ecstatic to see fresh berries on my plate, even if blueberries and strawberries are not in season in winter.  Perhaps I'm being too picky.  They were sweet and juicy and all those other things that make women crave berries.
Croque Madame
Dinner
Dustin and I chose to sit at the bar this time, mostly because our very good friend JP was working.  I inquired about the oysters, but JP said they are a bit dry (an oyster atop a wonton crisp with habañero aioli).  I would soon come to find, Louie's dinnertime kitchen staff is a little too frugal with their condiments.  Instead, we ordered the bruschetta sampler, four kinds of toppings on La Quartier ciabatta.

1. Margarita
This first toast point had my favorite sweet tang of balsamic reduction.  The smell of fresh basil and roasted tomato was nothing short of inspirational.  There's something about that fresh from the garden, herb-y smell that makes me want to go out and do something to change the world.  (Insert your own thoughts regarding la primavera, springtime renewal, etc.)  Beneath was a good amount of gooey mozzarella.  Oh, did I mention the tomatoes were marinated in Zing Zang before they were roasted?  It's a culinary shortcut, but I liked the juiciness and spice.  (All this from a tomato hater, by the way.)

2. Braised Short Rib
The rib meat was fall-apart tender.  Braising locks in loads of flavor and juice, which is great for layering over a crusty bread.  The "pinot noir infused" onions were perfect, not too sweet or sour.  Too often do restaurants put too much sugar (e.g. M's Pub) or too much vinegar (e.g. La Buvette) in their pickled vegetables.  You want the pickled veg to accompany the dish, not overpower it.  Using a red wine was a great alternative.  As for the Maytag blue cheese, I didn't taste it, which was fine by me.  Maytag is not my favorite, by far.
Bruschetta Sampler
3. Balsamic Portobello
The mushroom was of course meaty and earthy.  The roasted red pepper, goat cheese, and balsamic reduction all provided a piquant balance against the mushroom.  Simple, a bit predictable, but scrumptious nonetheless.  I can always be pleased with goat cheese and balsamic.

4. Pulled Pork
This last bruschetta did not come out as the menu described.  The menu said "Pulled pork, fontina, roasted butternut squash, balsamic onions, and lime sour cream."  Ours came garnished with shredded fresh apple instead of squash.  The pulled pork was rich, almost creamy.  Unctuous.  Paired with the apple, this one was definitely my favorite and probably better than what the original dish would have been.

Shrimp and Grits
This was my first adventure with grits, and I was impressed!  I expected a Cream of Wheat texture, but these were not so.  More like a finely minced hominy.  Dustin said these were the largest grits he'd ever eaten.  They were hot, creamy, not too grainy.  Loads of zippy white cheddar cheese and salty bacon lardons.  And some giant Gulf shrimp cooked to perfection.  The grits came with a slice of buttered ciabatta, but after all the bruschetta, I passed.  According to JP, the grits were also cooked with thyme and lobster gravy.  Talk about decadence!  I'm afraid these grits may have spoiled me, should I ever try them somewhere else.
Shrimp and Grits
Finally, how can I not order wine at a "wine dive"?  I had a glass of Joseph Drouhin "Laforet" Bourgogne Pinot Noir.  This red was light and smooth, very easy drinking.  I remember thinking it would go well with a spicy bleu cheese, gorgonzola perhaps.  Dustin was given a shot of Buffalo Trace bourbon from the tap.  It smelled sweeter than it tasted, and then came the whiskey burn.  Just the thing to complete the "full experience."

My first meal there was during the soft opening, so of course there are still a few kinks that need to be worked out.  But Louie's offers the perfect marriage of cuisines for Dustin and myself (perhaps this will spur another marriage in the future?)  Louie's Wine Dive may be one of the newest establishments in West Omaha, but I say "Vive la fête!"